INDEX

• BASEMENT INSTALLATION
• UNDER SINK INSTALLATION
• WHAT IS THE EXPECTED SERVICE LIFE OF STAGE 1-5 REPLACEABLES?
• HAVE AN ICEMAKER?
• NEED MORE RO WATER?
• NEED MORE PRESSURE OUT OF THE RO FAUCET?
• WANT TO KNOW HOW WELL YOUR SYSTEM IS OPERATING?
• NEED ACCESSORIES, SPARE PARTS, FILTERS, OR MEMBRANES?
• INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHANGING FILTERS
• INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHANGING MEMBRANE
• TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
• MODEL NUMBER NB 70 GPD-5S-PA RO SYSTEM SCHEMATIC DRAWING

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Please check the unit carefully before installing. It is not unusual for fittings and housings to loosen during shipping; if this is not corrected the unit will leak.

This unit can be installed under the sink or in the basement if you have one. We suggest that the unit be installed in the basement to save space under the sink for other uses.

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Basement Installation

1. Install membrane in membrane housing (Part #7, 7A) by:

1. Remove membrane-housing lid by turning counter-clockwise. A crescent wrench or gas pliers may be used if housing is too tight.

2. Remove new membrane from plastic bag being careful not to touch the outer-wrapping of membrane because acids from your skin can damage the membrane. Handle membrane by the posts on either end.

3. Notice 2 "O"-rings wrapped around the bottom post; these should be lubricated with Vaseline or silicone grease. You may now install the membrane making sure to insert 2 "O"-ring end into housing first. (You will feel both "O"-rings seat when it’s pushed in all the way).

4. Once the membrane is in, put the cap back on the housing and re-connect the tubing to the fitting on the cap.

1. Mount RO unit up in the rafters (2 screws) so that filter housings can be removed easily to change filters.

2. Install on/off valve on threaded post on end of storage tank (Use Teflon tape).  Mount the RO water storage pressure tank horizontally up in the rafters also. We suggest you use at least two ¾" polypropylene hanger straps. Be sure the unit is secure so it does not fall down, as a full tank of water weighs 25 LBS.

3. Run color coded ¼" PVC tubing to unit as follows:

White or Black:	Raw water feed to unit
Yellow:	Processed RO water feed to pressurized water storage tank.
Blue:	Processed RO water feed to special faucet mounted on kitchen sink.
Red:	RO wastewater feed to house sanitary drain system.

Note:

• A. If your unit has "nut " type fittings, loosen nut to put in or take out ¼" tubing.

• B. If your unit has push on fittings, use an adjustable wrench or your fingers to push locking ring flush with fitting body to release ¼" tubing so it can be pulled out of fitting. To install ¼" tubing just push ¼" tubing into locking ring on fitting body until tubing bottoms out inside fitting body so that it doesn’t leak. MAKE SURE END OF TUBING IS CUT SQUARE.

1. Install ¼" RO feed "C" type saddle valve on ½" cold water line. Install after any point-of-entry (POE) water processing equipment (I.e. Iron filter, water softener, Etc.) you have in the house.

2. Do not hook up to hot water line as you will damage the membrane and void your warranty.

3. Run the drain line to the house sanitary drain system. It is best to have an air-gap connection to the house sanitary drain system. This can be done by using a commercial air-gap unit supplied by Natures Beverage (Part #14 A2) or purchased locally. You can also just stop the red RO drain line 1/2" minimum above the flood level rim point (I.e. top of slop sink or floor drain) of the house sanitary drain system connection. The rule-of-thumb is that an air-gap should be a minimum of 2X the diameter of the units drain line.

4. Install special RO faucet on the sink or counter top. If there is no hole available use a ¾" Bi-metal hole saw on a wood or stainless steel surface. Be careful you don’t slip and scratch the surface being drilled. If you have a corian, granite, marble, or cast iron sink we recommend a special carbide drill bit (I.e. Relton, Inc.) set be used so the surface does not chip. If you decide to use a straight ¾" carbide bit, No hammer action, and proceed slowly minimum chipping should occur.

5. Plug in 110VAC-power cord from RO unit into a 110VAC 60HZ-power receptacle near the RO unit.

   Due to carbon and other normal impurities present in the filters and a preservative used in the membrane, we recommend that you flush the system prior to drinking. Once the storage tank is full open the faucet and let the water run until it empties the storage tank. After the tank is drained, close the faucet and allow the tank to fill again, (Usually about two hours.) Then drain and allow to refill.

6. The water is now pure and ready to drink

7. Enjoy your new RO unit the water is great. Use it for coffee, juices, cooking, and watering plants.

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Under Sink Installation

1. Locate standard saddle type drain connection (Part #31) on vertical section of 1 ¼" drainpipe under sink. Mark and drill a ¼" hole through pipe. Align hole in saddle type drain connection with hole in pipe and tighten clamp so that it doesn’t leak. It is best to have an air-gap connection to the house sanitary drain system. This can be done by using a commercial air-gap unit supplied by Natures Beverage (Part #31A –for existing disposal), (Part #31C –replaces an existing vertical 1 1/4" PVC pipe under sink.)

2. Install ¼" RO feed "C" type saddle valve on ½" cold water line.

   Do not hook up to hot water line, as you will damage membrane and void warranty.

3. Install membrane in membrane housing (Part #7, 7A) by:

1. Remove membrane-housing lid by turning counter-clockwise. A crescent wrench or gas pliers may be used if housing is too tight.

2. Remove new membrane from plastic bag being careful not to touch the outer-wrapping of membrane because acids from your skin can damage the membrane. Handle membrane by the posts on either end.

3. Notice 2 "O"-rings wrapped around the bottom post; these should be lubricated with Vaseline or silicone grease. You may now install the membrane making sure to insert 2 "O"-ring end into housing first. (You will feel both "O"-rings seat when it’s pushed in all the way)

4. Once the membrane is in, put the cap back on the housing and re-connect the tubing to the fitting on the cap.

1. Place RO unit under sink on cabinet floor or mount inside on side of cabinet (2 screws).

2. Install on/off valve on the threaded post on end of storage tank (use Teflon tape). Place storage tank under sink on cabinet floor horizontally or vertically using black plastic support provided.

3. Run color coded ¼" PVC tubing, leave tubing as long as possible so you can remove RO unit from under cabinet for service without having to disconnect tubing, as follows:

White or Black:	Raw water feed to unit>
Yellow:	Processed RO water feed to pressurized water storage tank.
Blue:	Processed RO water feed to special faucet mounted on kitchen sink.
Red:	RO wastewater feed to house sanitary drain system. (Attach to ¼" port of drain connection.)

Note:

• If your unit has "nut " type fittings, loosen nut to put in or take out ¼" tubing.

• If your unit has push on fittings, use an adjustable wrench or your fingers to push locking ring flush with fitting body to release ¼" tubing so it can be pulled out of fitting. To install ¼" tubing just push ¼" tubing into locking ring on fitting body until tubing bottoms out inside fitting body so that it doesn’t leak. MAKE SURE END OF TUBING IS CUT SQUARE.

1. Install special RO faucet on the sink or counter top. If there is no hole available use a ¾" Bi-metal hole saw on a wood or stainless steel surface. Be careful you don’t slip and scratch the surface being drilled. If you have a corian, granite, marble, or cast iron sink we recommend a special carbide drill bit (I.e. Relton, Inc.) set be used so the surface does not chip. If you decide to use a straight ¾" carbide bit, No hammer action, and proceed slowly minimum chipping should occur.

2. Plug in 110VAC-power cord from RO unit into a 110VAC 60HZ-power receptacle near the RO unit.

3. Due to carbon and other normal impurities present in the filters and a preservative

   used in the membrane, we recommend that you flush the system prior to drinking. Once the storage tank is full open the faucet and let the water run until it empties the storage tank. After the tank is drained, close the faucet and allow the tank to fill again, (Usually about two hours.) Then drain and allow to refill.

4. The water is now pure and ready to drink.

5. Enjoy your new RO unit-the water is great. Use it for coffee, juices, cooking, and watering plants.

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WHAT IS THE EXPECTED SERVICE LIFE OF STAGE 1-5 REPLACEABLES?

The standard NB 70 GPD-5S PA shipped assumes that your source water is safe and potable. A drawn glass of water is assumed to be clear and does not settle out silt or discolor from iron, manganese, tannins, nitrates, and does not exhibit any "rotten egg" smell. If the above are met, stage 1,2,3, & 5 filters should last one year and the stage 4 membrane should last two years. Premature failure of any stage (1-5) component requires a comprehensive water test to determine what pre-treatment is required to achieve the expected "normal" service life.  Purchase Nature’s Beverage pre-packaged maintenance sets (Part #70 for stage 1,2,3, &5) or (Part #71 for stages 1,2,3,4, &5) (Part #72 for stage 4 only) or individually packaged stage 1-5  (parts #80-84) or purchase locally.

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HAVE AN ICEMAKER?

You can hook up your refrigerator Icemaker to the RO for great ice cubes. Purchase Natures Beverage (Part #52) or purchase locally.

Caution:

• Do not use ¼" copper tubing for RO water for it will fail over time. Use plastic tubing for RO water to be safe.

• You can use the ¼" brass tubing nut off of your refrigerator’s water input location but use a ¼" plastic compression ring, not brass, so that you don’t cut the ¼" plastic tubing from the RO.

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NEED MORE RO WATER?

Your system has a booster pump to yield maximum treated water volume in minimal time. If you need more RO water, a larger storage tank is required. Purchase Natures Beverage. (Part#51) or purchase locally.

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NEED MORE PRESSURE OUT OF THE RO FAUCET?

Your system has been fine tuned to yield maximum distribution pressure consistent with efficient system operation with a storage tank static pressure, no water in tank, of 5 PSI and up to 55 PSI with a full tank of water. As water is drawn from the water storage tank pressure decreases from 55 PSI down to about 20 PSI and the system turns on to make water, which increases pressure. If you need or want more water pressure out of the RO faucet, a distribution pump (Part#50) or larger water storage tank (Part #51) with 3/8" plastic tubing is required. Purchase from Natures Beverage or purchase locally.

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WANT TO KNOW HOW WELL YOUR SYSTEM IS OPERATING?

If you want to insure that your RO system is operating at top efficiency, a testing unit called an RO Comparator is required. Purchase Natures Beverage (Part #53) or purchase locally.

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NEED ACCESSORIES, SPARE PARTS, FILTERS, OR MEMBRANES?

Purchase from Natures Beverage or purchase locally. See page 12 for NB 70 GPD-5S-PA RO system parts list. Contact Natures Beverage for current pricing.

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INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHANGING FILTERS

(STAGES 1,2,3, & 5)

1. Turn off ball valve located on top of the storage tank (when turned off, the valve lever should be perpendicular to the valve body.)

2. Find house water feed saddle valve located on a ½" cold-water Iine. It is the valve that feeds cold water to the R.O. system. Turn the valve clockwise until it stops. (It may take quite a few turns but it will eventually stop.)

3. Open R.O. faucet to relieve any excess pressure still in the lines. You should get a few drops out of the faucet and then nothing. If water continues to pour out of the faucet, make sure the two valves mentioned above are closed.

4. Basement Installation

Unscrew the filter housings, counter clockwise. (Clockwise if looking down from the top of the system.) If the housings are too tight use the filter wrench provided.

1. Under Sink Installation

   • If you left the color-coded tubes long enough you should be able to remove unit from cabinet and proceed to unscrew the filter housings, counter clockwise. (Clockwise if looking down from the top of the system.) If the housings are too tight use the filter wrench provided.

   • If the color-coded tubes are too short you will have to disconnect the RO unit completely (i.e. pull off ¼" color-coded tubing.) and remove the unit from under the sink and proceed to steps 5 & 6. After step 6, make sure you hook-up all the ¼" color-coded tubing correctly and put the unit back under the sink and plug it in.

2. Match new filters with the existing ones to assure that the new ones are put in the right canister. Remove and safely discard old filters.

3. After installing new filter, check to make sure that the "O"-ring inside the canister is properly in its seat before putting canister back on the system.

4. Once housings are back in place and securely tightened, you can turn both valves back on.

5. Due to carbon and other normal impurities present in the filters and a preservative used in the membrane, we recommend that you flush the system prior to drinking. Once the storage tank is full open the faucet and let the water run until it empties the storage tank. After the tank is drained, close the faucet and allow the tank to fill again, (Usually about two hours.) Then drain and allow to refill.

6. The water is now pure and ready to drink!

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INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHANGING MEMBRANE

(STAGE 4)

1. With water turned off and system pressure relieved (refer to filter changing instructions), remove the tubing connected to the membrane-housing lid.

2. Remove membrane-housing lid by turning counter-clockwise. A crescent wrench or gas pliers may be used if housing is too tight.

Notes:

Basement Installation

• It may be easier to disconnect the RO unit completely, (I.e. pull off ¼" color coded tubing) and remove the unit from the floor joist and place on floor to accomplish this. If you do this make sure you hook-up all the ¼" color-coded tubing correctly after step 6 below.

Under Sink Installation

• If you left the color-coded tubes long enough you should be able to remove unit from cabinet and proceed to unscrew the filter housings, counter clockwise. (Clockwise if looking down from the top of the system.) If the housings are too tight use the filter wrench provided.

• If the color-coded tubes are too short you will have to disconnect the RO unit completely (i.e. pull off ¼" color-coded tubing.) and remove the unit from under the sink and proceed to steps 5 & 6. After step 6, make sure you hook-up all the ¼" color-coded tubing correctly and put the unit back under the sink and plug it in.

1. Pull membrane out of housing. Pliers may be used if membrane will not release from housing. Pour out any extra water in housing.

2. Remove new membrane from plastic bag being careful not to touch the outer-wrapping of membrane because acids from your skin can damage the membrane. Handle membrane by the posts on either end.

3. Notice the 2 "O"-rings wrapped around the bottom post; these should be lubricated with Vaseline or silicone grease. You may now install the membrane making sure to insert 2 "O"-ring end into housing first. (You will feel both o-rings seat when it’s pushed in all the way).

4. Once the membrane is in, put the cap back on the housing and re-connect the tubing to the fitting on the cap.

5. Make sure the RO unit is plugged in.

6. Always flush the system when changing the membrane, as the membrane is packaged in a preservative. Once the storage tank is full open the faucet until the tank is empty, let the tank fill up again, then empty it again, (takes about two hours) allow to refill.

7. The water is now pure and ready to drink!

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